Caring for Suede and Nubuck on Sneakers

Suede and nubuck add a premium feel to sneakers, but these very materials are the most afraid of moisture and dirt. The good news: with proper care, they last for years and look flawless. Let’s break down the key steps, the tools you need, and the common mistakes that cause a pair to lose its look and texture prematurely.

How Suede and Nubuck Differ

Suede is made from the inner layer of the leather and has a longer, soft nap — it is more delicate and more demanding in care. Nubuck is the outer layer of the leather with a short, dense nap; it is sturdier and more resistant to wear. Care for both is similar, but nubuck is more tolerant of light rubbing, whereas suede “scuffs” faster and leaves shiny spots in areas of constant contact, for example at the flex points. Understanding this difference will help you choose the right pressure and tool.

The Basic Care Kit

Before you begin, gather the right tools — without them the risk of doing harm is high:

• A suede brush with rubber or brass bristles — for removing dust and raising the nap.
• A nubuck eraser (crepe) — for dry stains and scuffs.
• A water-repellent spray for suede and nubuck — protection before wear.
• Talc or starch — for fresh greasy stains.
• A clean, dry microfiber cloth — for finishing care.

Plain water and soap are contraindicated here — they leave stains and mat the nap into a hard “crust.” Find quality footwear to care for in the sneakers section.

How to Clean a Dry Surface

Suede and nubuck are cleaned only when dry. Follow this order:

• Let the pair dry completely if it is damp — wet nap is easily damaged.
• Remove dust with a soft brush, moving in one direction.
• Treat dried stains with a special eraser using short back-and-forth motions.
• To restore the nap, go over it with a brush against the direction of the fibers, then align them in a single direction.
• Finish with a light shake to remove leftover eraser crumbs.

What to Do About Stains and Streaks

Different kinds of dirt require different responses, and speed matters here:

• Fresh greasy stains — sprinkle with starch or talc and leave overnight; the powder will draw out the grease, then brush it off.
• Salt streaks in winter — a solution of water and vinegar (1:1), apply minimally to a cloth and blot, don’t rub.
• Creases and scuffs — raise the nap with a brush or carefully with steam from a distance.
• Dirty water stains — let it dry completely, then go over it with a brush; the mark often disappears on its own.

Always let the pair dry completely and naturally, away from radiators and direct heat, otherwise the nap will harden.

Protection from Moisture

The most important step is prevention, not dealing with the consequences. Treat a new pair with a water-repellent spray before its first outing:

• Spray from a distance of 15–20 cm in an even, thin layer.
• Let it dry for 15–20 minutes and, if needed, repeat for even coverage.
• Renew the protection every 2–3 weeks of active wear.
• Be sure to treat the pair before the rainy and snowy season.

This creates an invisible barrier that repels water and dirt, so contamination is easier to remove. You’ll find the rest of the care accessories at the POGO store.

What You Must Not Do

A few actions ruin napped materials almost instantly, so commit them to memory:

• Don’t wash suede or nubuck in a washing machine — the water and drum will irreversibly ruin the nap and the shape.
• Don’t dry the pair with a hairdryer, on a radiator, or in direct sun — the nap will harden and the color will fade.
• Don’t try to remove a stain with an ordinary wet rag — you’ll only drive the dirt deeper into the fibers.
• Don’t use colored wipes on light suede, as they may bleed.
• Don’t use products for smooth leather — creams and waxes clog the nap.

Seasonal Tips

In winter, suede and nubuck suffer the most from salt, de-icing agents, and constant moisture. In the rainy and snowy season, treat the pair with a protective spray more often — once a week rather than once a month. After each outing, let the sneakers dry completely indoors and only then clean them with a dry brush. If the pair is especially valuable, it’s better to keep it at home for the winter and choose a more practical material for active wear.

Summary

Suede and nubuck require dry cleaning, special tools, and regular protection from water. Clean them dry, work along the direction of the nap, never dry them on a radiator — and the pair will keep its texture and color for a long time. Need advice on a specific model? Write to us via contacts.